New to the forum and snowmobiles - Ski-Doo Forums

Ski-Doo Parts
Register
Login
  • Help


Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Ski-Noob
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    4
    Rep Power
    0

    Default New to the forum and snowmobiles

    Hey there. I suppose i could have posted in the new member section bt figured i could introduce myself and my few problems here!

    I just recently came into a free snowmobile from my fiances step dad. It's a 95 mach 1 670.

    Ive riden snowmobiles a few times in the past but never owned one and am not the most mechanically inclined but a quick learner. Now that i own one might as well figure stuff out.

    Anyway, the sled starts but its very hard to get going sometimes. ive read the pull on this specific sled is hard anyway. sometimes she kicks over but other times im stuck pulling her for 20 plus minutes.

    My neighbor has a similar sled, forgot the name, but he showed me how to prime it and feel when its ready which as been a huge help.

    Still sometimes after is been running and i shut it off, after 15 mins it becomes extremely hard to start and i get almost to tired to try and start it.

    I replaced the spark plugs today and she fired right up.. then later (about an hour or two later) i tried to start her and i just gave up. didnt prime it or anything the 2nd time.

    my question is should i take it somewhere for a tune up? or is there some way i could try and tune it myself? i really dont know too much about engines.

    thanks in advance to anyone who cares to read this!

  2. #2
    Moderator racerxxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Chalfont, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    155
    Rep Power
    15

    Default

    Hey I'm out right now but I'll post up a few questions later on tonight. That's a really cool ski he set you up with.

    Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Moderator racerxxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Chalfont, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    155
    Rep Power
    15

    Default

    Ok,When was the last time it ran or better yet, how long has it sat not being started or ridden? If more than a season you will want to pull the carbs off and clean them throughly. Drain out all the old gas out for sure, it won't run on that. As far as it being hard to pull over I can't really say one way or the other. If the carbs are dirty/clogged/partially clogged you will pull your arm off getting it to run. Also, ask him what oil he ran in the sled. The OEM oil is expensive but worth it in my opinion. You should be running api-tc rated oil and nothing else. That engine has RAVE valves on the exhaust ports and they will gum up and hinder performance with cheap oil that has gummed them up. Probably not a bad idea to pull them and clean them off but you will need some gaskets and o-rings to do that.

    My old sleds have primers on them and what I do is prime it a few times until you can feel the resistance in the primer so you know your pulling fuel and pushing it into the carbs. Then pull it a few times and see if it fires up. If not just give it 2 or 3 shots of the primer. and get it to sputter. Then maybe another shot of the primer. Once it starts I nurse the throttle and have my other hand on the primer and it it wants to die out just give it a quick shot of the primer until it will idle on its own. Most sleds don't have chokes on them so the primer is you choke of sorts.

    If you have any more questions just ask, I'm here to help. Where about are you from?

  4. #4
    Ski-Noob
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    4
    Rep Power
    0

    Default

    Thanks for the response! the sled was used by my fiances mom only occasionally but he ran it last season. i got it at the end of the season and she started then. didnt start her all summer but she started up fairly quick this year.

    Maybe it would be a good idea to clean the carbs? and i could possibly be overthinking the starting of it. just such a pain.

    thanks for the quick response! im located in southern maine. born and raised in massachusetts (21 years, 25 now)

  5. #5
    Moderator racerxxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Chalfont, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    155
    Rep Power
    15

    Default

    I would definitely go thru the carbs and break them down as far as they will go. If you need some help just let me know and I'll see what I can do.

    Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Ski-Noob
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    4
    Rep Power
    0

    Default

    so i ended up going out to dinner with the fiance and her parents. talked with him and he had cleaned the carbs before
    he gave it to me. he also said to prime it when she turns over, which i havent been doing. now she starts idles like a charm.

    since youve been a help so far ley me pick your brain. i suppose this isnt a neccesity buy reverse in broken. when u put her in reverse she almost grinds, especially if u rev. when inopen the hood and switch to reverse the belt sounds like its grinding. spins but maybe doesnt catch?

    a little carb cleaning lesson wont hurt either! i want to learn so i wont have to ask these amatuer questions later! thanks again

  7. #7
    Moderator racerxxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Chalfont, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    155
    Rep Power
    15

    Default

    The reverse MIGHT (used loosely) need adjustment (cable operated I think????) but something could be broken in the chain case. I think there is a spring in there that shifts the gears to engage. I also don't recall a Mach having reverse but I think it was listed as an option.

    On starting, you could use a later 96' 670 recoil. I think they were slightly larger in diameter making it easier to pull. The 95 670 was supposed to be the best year of them all. Does your's have twin pipes?

    Carbs are fairly easy on that sled. I always mark my carbs PTO (clutch side) and MAG ( starter recoils side) so I don't get them mixed up. But you just unthread the cap on the top of the carb and the slide will come out. Leave all those parts together. Then on the bottom of the bowl there are 4 screws that you can remove to access the innards. There are plastic floats that slide up and down on pins in the bowl. Clean them good and all the schmutz in the bowls. Take PLENTY of pics BEFORE you disassemble it. The Needle is attached to the float via a bent wire. You can remove all that stuff and then you'll see a brass hex in the center of a cup of sorts. That hex is either brass or plastic---be careful. Remove that and then the brass part that that threaded into will come out the top (round side) of the carb. It's slotted to only fit in one way----pay attention. Every one of those little holes has to be clean. If your're removing the adjusters, look at where the slot is where you put your screwdriver and slowly thread the screw in and count the turns in until it just slightly bottoms out, don't crank it. It could be 1-1/4 turns in---COUNT THEM, even the 1/4's or 1/8's---again use the slot as the reference. Then make sure all those passages are clean. Spray carb and choke cleaner thru them (watch your eyes--safety glasses are king, I then use a hand pump oil bottle and some Automatic transmission fluid (red in color) and squirt that thru the passages to make sure they all flow. You can also use compressed air to blow it out after you clean it. Assembly is just the opposite. Do one at a time just in case you need a reference.

    #25 threads into #10 and #10 comes out the top.

    #14 is held on with a pin #13 that only comes out one side--pay attention

    #31 only goes on one way

    1-9 Do not disassemble unless necessary but you can unthread #1 from that carb with the cable attached. Watch the pointy needle at the end of 1-9, you can not screw that tip up.

    I polish all the brass parts with 0000 (4 zeros) steel wool and I use a fine stainless steel kit from Harbor freight to clean the aluminum bowl on the inside in my cordless drill. I try and refrain from running anything into any ports (no drill bits etc...) so they don't get scratched. You could soak the carb in lacquer thinner for a few hours if needed. If I forgot anything I'll post it up later.

    5 Piece Stainless Steel Wheel and Brush Set



  8. #8
    Moderator racerxxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Chalfont, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    155
    Rep Power
    15

    Default

    Oh, ask as many questions as you need. It's the best way to learn!

  9. #9
    Ski-Noob
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    4
    Rep Power
    0

    Default

    thanks for the reference guide.

    Yea she does have twin pipes. most people were shocked it has reverse so it must be an option.

    just need some snow now in maine

  10. #10
    Moderator racerxxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Chalfont, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    155
    Rep Power
    15

    Default

    We have snow here, but it was took drop for my blizzard. Hopefully after it warms up it will packed down and I can get out there.

    Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •